Back Home in Seattle

I am happily writing from home in Marysville, Washington ( 40 miles north of Seattle).

My last blog was written from Hanoi International Airport, not knowing when we would be getting anywhere, so we could be on our way home.

Our plane was cancelled around 4 am ( after a scheduled 11pm departure).  There was a mechanical problem that was unable to be repaired.  Red flags had been flying after our first delay was announced.  First red flag: the staff and crew brought out cans of soda and bottles of water for us.  About 1 hour later, red flag #2:  the staff brought out sandwiches. Red flag #3: we were all given blankets.  So, if they were getting anywhere with the repairs, these things would not be happening.  The positive is: at least they were trying to take care of us; the negative was: the communication was sorely lacing. Announcements were made in Vietnamese, but us foreigners had to seek out staff to get the translation.

After the cancellation, we were offered to be taken to hotels. The problem with that was, it meant being shuttled back to Hanoi (about 1 hour away). If we chose the hotel option, it meant we would need to be picked up at 9 am to get back to the airport by 10 am.  Most of the local passengers left the airport to probably, just head back home. There were about 14 of us that stayed at the airport.

All of us had many questions for the Asiana staff, the main one being "when will we be able to leave Hanoi for home"?  Our current boarding passes, connection flight boarding tickets and baggage claim stubs were taken from us. The reason was, so our next flights could be arranged.  There was one agent to help us all figure out our flight plans. People were headed to Berlin, London, Boston, Denver, Seattle and Tennessee.  We were told that there would be a "special" plane departing at 12:30 for Seoul, but all of us would miss our connections home.  If we get on that flight, what happens after we get to Seoul?

I was asked if I could take the Saturday night 11pm flight out of Hanoi to Seoul. I answered "yes, if I get upgraded to business class". I figured it won't hurt to ask. As it turned out, the couple from London was eacorted around 9 am down to get there flight via Bangkok then off to London. We all clapped for them.  At Least someone made it out. Our rumoured flight was maybe getting to Singapore, then to Seattle, but as of 10 am, no one seemed to know what was happening.  

We were escorted upstairs to Asiana's business lounge so we could rest. There were sleeper couches (which were already occupied) and several club chairs. I pushed 2 club chairs together (seat edge to seat edge) and curled up and got about 1 hour of sleep. It was only an hour as at 6am, all the room lights came on full blast, so it was wake up time. The lounge also had food, which is free for the business travellers. We were then able to eat some breakfast.

At about 10:15, an Asiana agent came up to the lounge looking for "Jacqueline Wheeler".  I yelled, "here, here...I am Jacqueline Wheeler"!  They were also looking for Jim. Anyway, we were told that they have a flight waiting for us, but it is leaving now!  I stuffed my things back in my bag, put on my shoes, said good-bye to our fellow passengers, and we ran to the ticket counter. We were handed our boarding passes, baggage claim stubs, and new boarding pass for our connection for home.  We were shuttled out on the tarmac to the plane, Vietnam Airlines, heading for Seoul. We were the last to board and they were holding the plane for us. We made it! We were on our way and would get to Seoul in time to make our original connecting flight to Seoul!

Jim and I felt so lucky and fortunate with this chain of events. I only hoped our remaining friends that we made, we also be lucky soon.  The flight was a full one to Seoul and we were surrounded by screaming babies: 1 beside us, 1 behind us, and 1 in front of us.  Those screaming babies becaming the sweetest noises to me.  It meant that we were on a plane heading home. All I could do is laugh, then sit back and enjoy the ride.  

Four hours later, we landed in Seoul, we had to go to customs for screening, and catch a shuttle to get over to make our connection on Asiana Airlines. Incheon Airport is gigantic.  It is a central hub and known for long layovers. Originally, we were scheduled for a 13 hour layover in Seoul.  The airport has a golf course, shopping, museums, gardens, transit tours into Seoul ( which I took when I travelled to Vietnam 3 years ago), and a transit hotel.  Jim and I had a room waiting for us at the airport for our long layover ( it normally is a $135 fee for a 12 hour stay, but our room was comped since we were on a medical mission). I had a bag packed with a change of clothes and toiletries so I could shower and nap. Best plans ahead of time, obviously didn't pan out. Our layover was in Hanoi instead, so no shower or sleep for us.

We had about 1 1/2 hours until our flight to Seattle. I saw a "Starbucks" so I took advantage of getting a latte.  I barely finished my coffee and our flight was boarding.  Now for another 10 hour flight. I was tired, my eyes were bloodshot, I was in dire need of a shower and clean clothes. Jim and I got to our seats, and breathed a sigh of relief as the plane took off.  I was so tired and anxious to gwt home, that sleep was non-existant. I tried to rest, but could not get comfortable; my back ached, my butt hurt, I had a leg cramp. I just kept changing positions, getting up to walk around.  I knew we would get home so that is all I kept focusing on. I would think of seeing my husband Bruce at Seattle, and I would get emotional. I missed him so much and couldn't wait to see him and hold on to him.

We wer finally making our descent into Sea-Tac. We have arrived! We are home ( Jim still had a 4 hour layover to look forward to, and then fly to Eugene)!  We disembarked, went to customs, claimed our luggage, and I said goodbye to Jim.  He headed for his connection, and I took my luggage and headed downstairs to find Bruce.  

I knew he would be waiting by the baggage claim carousel so I made my way to the area.  I had my backpack on, pulling 2 suitcases behind me, wearing my old and dishelved clothes and "crazy" hair sticking up in every direction, looking for Bruce. There he is! I see him! I practically started a short sprint, which isn't easy in flip-flops.  He finally saw me and I started to cry ( like I am now as I am recalling this) as I was heading towards him. We hugged for the longest time and I wiped my tears on his shirt. "Let's go home"!  

It was cool and slightly cloudy out. It felt wonderful! We are on the road and I can't wait now to get home and see my dogs, cats, yard,eventually kids and grandkids, car....all the things that are home.

Thanks for reading and following me on my journey. I love you all!

Delays, delays, delays...

Another first for me...sleeping in an airport. Well, sleeping is not really occuring at the moment.  We arrived at Hanoi airport on to e for our flight to Seoul.  I had it all planned out: transit hotel was arranged for our layover in Seoul. The layover was for 13 hours, so having a room at the transit hotel would be wonderful.  Jim and I each had a room reserved and it was being comp'ed since we were on a medical mission (normally it is a $134 fee). I had my bag equipped with a change of clothes and various asundries to make my stay quite pleasant.  So much for plans.  I am in my same clothes from yesterday afternoon, so I must look like a typical weary traveller.

I atill haven't heard IF our tickets were re-booked to Seoul, but a girl can hope.  If the flight comes off as scheduled, we should arrive in Seoul at 4:30 pm with our connection occuring at 6:40pm.  It is an 11 hour flight to Seattle, so I plan to pop some pills (benedryl) to help me sleep.  

Asiana Airlines brought us up to the "business lounge" to rest, but, one hour later,  all the lights came on, so it was wake up time for us.  There was so much confusion with this flight cancellation.  The ticket agents told us that we would go to a hotel and be brought back to the airport for our flight. The problem was, the hotels were back in Hanoi, which is an hour away. A few of us opted to stay here, as we would barely just arrive at the hotel, then have to come back to the airport.  There was one ticket agent to help about 10 of us get new flights, and they just didn't seem to know what to do.

We can only hope to get home and soon.  I am so ready to get on the plane.  I am getting so grumpy.  There is a group next to me laughing and giggling and I am about to scream, but I am maintaining, so far. I don't feel like laughing right now.

I hope to blog from Seoul later, and if so, hopefully be in a better mood. 

Jim is happy too...NOT!

Good Night Vietnam!

This is our last night in Hanoi. It has been a week of dinners and gifts given to us by some of the doctors at the clinic and even Mrs. Huong, Lucky 3 Hotel Manager.

Jim and I saw the last of our patients today. They were are going home to their families and getting on with their new lives. The mother of one of the girls thanked us for making her daughter " beautiful". Amymore, I can cry so easily. I was tearing up at all the thanks, hugs and good byes today. Hopefully, they thought my tears was just perspiration vs tears.  The weather has been my biggest agonist on this trip. I literally feel sweat run down my back from doing nothing. My face at my hairline is always moist. I really hope Seattle is cool when I get home, as I will not miss this humidity.

The last couple of days have been relaxing, with morning wals, afternoon naps, and dinner parties for us both.  Wednesday night, Mrs. Huong cooked us dinner in their rooftop restaurant just for Jim and I. She also gave us Vietnamese coffee as gifts to take home.  She was so thankful that we brought multi-vitamins from America for her children, that she wanted to thanks us.

Wednesday evening after dinner, we were picked up and taken to Dr. Nguyen's house for tea and dessert with her parents, husband and sons. They too, gave us gifts of Jasmine tea to take home.

Today, we cound this wonderful restaurant called the "Blue Butterfly". We had a wonderful lunch, and if we had more time, they give cooking classes. The cost is $35 and they tKe you to the local market to shop for your ingredients. The menu is: papaya salad with spicey beef and spring rolls. You are then brought back to the restaurant where you prepare your meal, then get to enjoy it.  We spoke to some New Zealanders that just finished their class and they absolutely loved the experience.

This evening, Dr. Vy picked us up and took us to her home where she prepared whole crab, clams, spring rolls, a rice noodle soup with crab and cilantro, red wine and jasmine tea.  She said that Vietnamese go to the market daily to shop for their days meal.  They do not buy ahead and freeze items, like we do at home. I noticed that when our plate was empty, they kept putting more food on my plate. I asked them if they do "leftovers", and they do not. What is not eaten is thrown out, but they rarely waste much food. It was wonderful knowing everything was freshly bought and prepared. There were more gifts for us. I received a beautiful silk scard of pinks and blues. We were also given a box of a "candy" it is a Vietnames bean curd cake. They look like bouillon cibes, very small. They have a very slightly sweet taste and a local after dinner treat.

When we got back to the hotel tonight, my last gift was waiting: weasel coffee. The story is weasels here,or civet cats, as they are known, like to eat arabica coffee beans. The digested beans are then taken from their feces and some bright, industrious fellow, decided to roast them and make coffee outmof the digested, eliminated beans. Google it, if you don't believe me! I have always wanted to try some, but didn't know if I could actually brew some in my pot and then actually drink it. So, now that I have some that I am bringing home, beware if you come to my house for coffe and dessert. Who knows, you may actually like it!

I had such a good time meeting the families these last 2 nights. They have lots of questions about America, just like we have lots of questions about life in Vietnam.  Hanoi is a very interesting place. It has been such a wonderful travel spot. The city is very hectic, noisy and many different smells. The countryside of the mountains of Sa Pa was a wonder, for sure. 

My last time here, 3 years ago, I visited Ha Long Bay, and that was a wonder too. If I return, I would love to visit central and south Vietnam: beaches, temples, pagodas and more of it's history. I am not sure if I will return, but I know that if I do return, I will have friends waiting.

Restful Day in Hanoi

As the trip is coming to a close, we are saying our goodbyes and getting some last minute photos.

Our morning begins by visiting our patients at the Hospital. Some of them have been discharged, after spending their week as an inpatient. We visited today and one of the mother's was coming her hair as we walked in to the room. She got her camera out and wanted her son to get a photo of her with Jim and myself. Such a sweet gesture. They are always so happy to see us when we visit them in the morning.   I also had some leftover stuffed animals, so I went into their "pre-op" area to give them to any babies that I could find; which I did find.

As we were leaving, one of the anesthesiologists that we worked with, also stopped to talk with us and to have a photo taken.  Next, Dr. Nguyen asked us if we could come to meet her parents tonight at her house. She offered to pick us up and very much wanted us to meet her family.

Dr. Nguyen picked us up and we arrived at their house. We met her parents. Her father is a nephrologist and her mother is a gastroenterologist. Her father also was a General for the North Vietnamese Army during the war.  Dr. Nguyen's husband ( also a physician), her 2 sons, ages 11 and 8, her brother, sister-in-law and their 2 year old daughter were also there to meet us.  We had Jasmine tea, kiwi, pear and apple. It was Dr. Nguyen's sister-in-law's birthday, so there was cKe with candles and we sang "Happy Birthday"!

We visited for about 2 hours, talked about our families and thoroughly enjoyed ourselves. We were so welcomed and they kept thanking us for coming such a long way, to help them.  They also want us to return next year and kept asking us if would could return.

We were driven home and given some Jasmine tea as gifts. I just am overwhelmed by the love and generosity that the staff, patients and families have given us. 

Tomorrow is one last dinner, and this time at Dr. Vy's house, where we will meet her family. Oh, and another thing. The hotel manger of the hotel we are staying in, Lucky 3 Hotel, cooked dinner for us tonight in the rooftop restaurant, where we eat our morning breakfast.  The team has been staying at her hotel for the past 10 years and have definitely developed a friendship with her. She wanted us to being her some vitamins for her children from America, so Jim and I bought some items from Costco to give to her. In return she made us dinner tonight of cooked fish, pork, mushrooms, salad and a bean curd dessert. She also gave us some Vietnamese coffee as gifts to bring home. Again, such appreciation and friendship from the people I have met. 

The last of the patients should be going home tomorrow and we leave for home on Friday. I am ready for home, but I have once afain, loved every moment of my stay here.

Goodnight and I will be home soon!

Reflections

As my trip is coming to a close, I find I am thinking of home a lot!  This trip has been wonderful and I feel blessed to have experienced another culture so closely.

It also shows me and reminds me what I have and what I miss, since I've been gone. Today, I really felt like I was missing out. Missing out on my family, my home, the gray and cool Seattle weather, and even my job.  There is so much stimulation here: traffic, horns, humidity and smells.  I have been a pretty good traveller, until today. I think the trigger was the "iced coffe with condensed milk". Silly, I know, but a memory of home. I miss my husband. We have been Facetiming on our iphone to ipad, but the reception via wifi has been weak. We really haven't been able to talk without missing half of each others conversation. Big Baby, that I am, I am tearing up as I write this.  I need a tissue, so pause for a light eye dab and nose blow here....

This blog is about my travel experience, so I guess home- sickness is part of my experience. I miss my kids and grandkids too. There is a lot of joy there and I am happy they are part of my family. I miss my dogs and cats and Snooter's hairballs ( not really, but trying to make it real here).

So today, Jim and I visited the Military museum or Citadel and the Women's museum.  The Vietnamese women played a very intregal part in the conflicts involving Vietnam with China, the French and USA.  They helped dig the tunnels, care for and transported the wounded soldiers and even carried rifles and fought.

Many of the street vendors we see with their loaded down bicycles or carrying their baskets of fruits or veggies oon their shoulders, do not live in Hanoi.  Most of these women come from distant villages, rent rooms in a boarding house for 35 cents a day, and share with 10 other women. They have husband and children and maybe go home once a month to visit their husbands and children, and if they are fortunate enough, maybe have $20 to bring back home.  The husbands tend to the farms, but farming isn't always enough to provide for their families. The women want better for their children, which is at least, finishing high school. Their love and sacrifice really hit home with me today, as I looked at these women.  Maybe the story isn't the same for them all, but they do what needs to be done and that is just the way it is.

I will keep this short and post some pictures from today. I am counting my days for coming home. The flight will be a long one, as it always is, when you are anxious to get somewhere.

Plan for tomorrow is unsure.  We will stop by the hospital and visit our patients, maybe walk around Hoan Kiem Lake, have some ice cream and enjoy life, and try and keep things in perspective.  

Thanks for reading!

Post Sa Pa Holiday

As I sit in my hotel room, I hope I can recall my Sa Pa adventure and not forget any details.  I just am amazed I was a part of this adventure, because I have never done anything like this EVER!

It all began with the train ride. What a ride indeed!  I paid $5 extra for the "deluxe" compartment. I knew it was 4 bunks and I also knew the washrooms were shared, at either end of the railcar. The bunks were comfortble enough, but the pillows and blankets....questionable on how clean they were. The train is a night train, taking 9 hours, per the brochure.  The train was scheduled to depart at 9:50 pm and arrive Lao Cai at 5:30-6 am. 

Jim and I are settled in and were sharing the compartment with a Vietnamese couple. No probllem. We couldn't communicate but lights were out a a reasonable time. I opted for the upper bunk to be closer to the air conditioning vent. The compartment had nice, cool air upon arrival, but soon changed over to a fan blowing air. OK, at least there is some ventilation.  Ther is a door that you can close to the hallway and our luggage was safely stowed.

4:30 am and I need to get up to tend to my baldder.  I mistakenly made the assumption there would at least be a toilet in the washroom.  Surprise! No toilet. They were kind enough to have an imprint of two feet on the floor with a hole in the middle of the floor. Decision time: hold ballder or go for it. I tested my sense of balance by stepping out of one pant leg so as not to get my clothes wet. Balancing act successful, especially with the movement of the train. Next issue, no toilet paper, ooh, and don't step in that brown stuff on the floor from where someone, obviously missed their target.  Cataastrophe averted. Got my clothes back on and stepped outside to wash my hands. t least there was a sink available for washing.

Our tour was delineated into specific time blocks: train arrives and our guide is to meet us with our names on signs. The train was scheduled for 6 am arrival. Well, train arrives at 8:45. We depart and see many names, but not ours. OK, tour missed, now what. I showed my tickets to the other tour guides, were put on 2 different shuttle buses, before finally finding someone that DID have our name, and we were finally off for the 30 minute, bumpy and rough ride up to Sapa.

I am already thinking that we missed our first tour ( which was to start after our breakfast, at 10 am).  We arrive at our hotel, met by our official tour guide for the day. He asks us " how fast can you eat your breakfast"?  They did wait for us to arrive before starting our tour. We ate a cold breakfast and headed out on our first day hike.

I am not sure of the elevation,  but it is close to the Indochinese Alps,Mt. Fanispan is about 2km from China's border. The town is fairly small and lots of the local tribal women, make the daily trek to the town to sell the items that they make "by hand".  The tribal women set up on the street sidewalks. Also, Saturday and Sunday, is the Market. You can buy local wares or produce, veggies, chicken and dog meat. Yes, dog is eaten by the Vietnamese, but only the men. Dogs really aren't as pets, but also used for protection. I just could not think about it as it is upsetting, just thinking about all the dogs I see in the city. I won't talk about this anymore.  

After walking through the market, we went to CatCat village. The higher elevation brought cooler, yet still humid weather.  We walked through the village, saw the countryside, saw lots of the shacks and huts where families live. Diego, our guide, took us inside a house of a family. It was a very low ceiling and it was covered with ears of corn. They have and old fashioned grain mill, that they grind the corn down for cornmeal.  They have an open fire for cooking and heat source. Sapa does get snow in the winter. The fire is for warmth, but there are so many openings for the cold air to still get through.   Grndparents, parents and children all lived here, about 14 people total. The mom was feeding her baby a grasshopper that she found in the hut ( there will be a picture of this). I happened to notice a TV in the corner. The village just recently got electricity. I am not sure how well it picks up stations, but there is a TV in this primitive hut.

The homes also have their items for sale outside, as more and more tourists are coming in. I would imagine, this will change a lot in the next few years, as Vietnam is becoming more popular for tourists. There are many, many Austrailians here. They tell us it is only an 8 hour plane ride away, so fairly close for travelling.

We also saw many fulcrum based wells. The water tricles down, bills up a little boat, when full, spills into ponds. Families gather their water here. So many of the little children were so dirty, but laughing and playing and seem very happy. In town, there are many children selling things too, maybe as little as 5 years old. Incredible.

On the other end of Cat Cat village was a veautiful water fall and a hydroelectric plant that was built by the French.  We did lots of steps up and down through this walk. Lots of cardio done. This trek is not for the weary. I was weary, but tried to show a brave face.

We were done with day one, after a 4 hour hike. We then went back to the hotel, was able to finally check in, shower and take a nap ( after lunch, of course as all meals were included on the tour).

Dinner was at 7 pm, so we met 2 people in our group from Montreal, and had dinner. We ate outside and people watched.  They close the main street in Sapa to night traffic. After dinner we walked over to the Catholic Cathedral and main part of town. The Cathedral was all lit up and there was music, dancing, and many people milling around. It was auch a beautiful night for a leisurely stroll.  Suzanne (from Montreal) showed us the lake in town as well.  We then made our way back to the hotel, as tomorrow is another day for adventure.

Day 2 was breakfast, packing up to check out of the hotel, and trek through the rice paddie fields to 2 more villages: Ta Van and Lao Chai. I slatered on the Deet and sunscreen and we atarted out. We were followed by a group of Hmong women for entire trek. They all ask the same questions: "where you from? What's your name? How old are you? Any children?" I am now "LuLu from Schenectady, with 6 children and I am 39"!  We all know the end result is for us to buy something from them when we reach the village. I was very happy to have my little friend by my side, because some of the paths were very primitive with many rocks, loose gravel and close to the cliff edge. When it got scarey, she took my hand and helped me.  They travel these paths daily, carrying full pack or even their children on their backs, with only flip flops on their feet. 

Our walk today was 5 hours in length, about 10km. There was the French Candian couple, a Vietnames woman, who now lives in California, and another Vietnames mother and son. We travelled through area with great vistas of all the terraced rice paddy fields. We stopped acouple of times along the way for rest breaks and water and photo ops. The locals were with us the entire way. Many bamboo trees lined the walks. I tried to get pictures of our path so you can appreciate the terrain.  There was also someone with his eels. Our tour guide placed 2 in his water bottle, paid the local, and will be having eel for dinner tonight!

I photographed some of the homes, fields, water buffalo, a villager fishing near the water fall. When we arrived at Ta Van, my little friend asked if I would buy something from her. I said yes, and then I was surrounded by them all.  All of them asking me " buy something from me too"?  My little friend is a bargainer and we went back back and forth several times. We made an agreement for 400,000 Dong ($20) for a beautiful hand embroidered wall hanging. I just love it!  This is a lunch stop for other groups as well, so finally, I got a reprieve qhen group 2 came through. 

I manged a few pictures of a Marijuana tree growing wild. Our tour guide did say it is for "medicinal" purposes only ( haven't we heard that before?), and that smoking marijuana is illegal in Vietnam. Our guide also was smoking tobacco from a water pipe, which I have seen many times on the streets of Hanoi but haven't gotten the chance for a photo.

The mists would come and go throughout the day, from the mountains. It sure helped to keep us cool. After our trek, the van took us to our hotel where there were showers for us to freshen up for the train ride back to Hanoi.  I got a photo of all of us for my memories.

We then were bused back down the mountain to Lao Cai to catch our train. Dinner in Lao Cai, washroom visit and no more water for me. I do not want so use another hole in the floor facility if I can help it.

Jim and I were just "dropped off" pointed where to go to catch the train, with a zillion other tourists. I had to aks someone as our train was scheduled to leave in 20 minutes. I finally found someone who could help us, we found our train car, and bunked down.  It was tough sleeping on the train as the facilities in the compartment were similar. It is also quite a bumpy ride. I managed to not need the washroom on board, so I was happy for that.

Upon arrival in Hanoi, we hailed a cab, as it was raining, and arrived back at Lucky 3 Hotel. We got our breakfast , showered, and here I am blogging while everything is still fairly fresh in my mind.  We hace until Friday in Hanoi, so will plan a couple of museum visits before it is time to head fo home. We will also stop by the hospital and check on our patients.

Enjoy the pictures. I tried to put them in order of the blog. I have yet to figure out how to post the pictures as I write about them. So here they are in a big heap!

Good night!